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Post by peterj on Jan 17, 2008 21:57:38 GMT 12
Cathy's Cafe Recipe Book
A Temperance of Cooks Sweet Changes last made on: October 7, 2007
[ in English, with English translation following ] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fresse (Curye I) Nym clanlyche frissiaus & soþþen grind in an mortar, & soþþen nim milke of alemauns oþer of cou, & temper wyþ ius of frissiaus; & soþþen do a lute bred of wastel, & lye wel wiþ speces & ayren & icoloured wiþ saffron, & soþþen dresse. Take carefully strawberries and then grind in a mortar, and then take milk of almonds or of cow, and mix with juice of strawberries; and then do a little white bread, and mix well with spices and eggs and colored with saffron, and then serve.
1 pound cored strawberries 1/2 cup almond milk or cow's milk 1/2 cup strawberry juice 1/2 cup fine breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon powder douce: sugar, cinnamon, ginger, mace, coriander 1 1/2 teaspoons galingale 6 threads saffron 1 large egg Grind strawberries to mush. Mix with milk, juice, and breadcrumbs; beat in spices and egg. Heat to a low boil and simmer for five minutes while stirring constantly. Cool and serve.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rosee (Curye I) Nym a poyne of rose leues oþer two, & grind in an mortar wel, & soþþen wyþ milke of alemauns temper, oþur wiþ milke of cow; & do alutel wastel bred, & lye wel wiþ speces & ayren icolored wiþ safroun, & cast a lef oþur two, & soþþen adres. Take a handful of rose petals or two, & grind in a mortar well, & then with milk of almonds mix, or with milk of cow, & do a little white bread, & mix well with spices & eggs colored with saffron, & cast a petal or two, & so arrange for serving.
1 cup organic rose petals 1 cup almond milk or cow's milk 1/3 cup fine breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon powder douce: sugar, cinnamon, ginger, mace, coriander 6 threads saffron 1 large egg Carefully wash petals and pat dry. Reserve a few and grind remainder to mush. Mix with milk and breadcrumbs; beat in spices and egg. Heat to a low boil and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Cool and serve, garnished with the reserved rose petals.
I generally use home-grown moschata rose petals, as the breed can be dated to 1540.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tartys in applis (Curye II) For to make tartys in applis, tak gode applys & gode spycis & figys & reysons & perys, & wan þey arn wel ybrayd colour wyþ safroun wel & do yt in a cofyn, & do yt forth to bake wel. For to make tarts in apples, take good apples & good spices & figs & raisins & pears, & when they are well ground color with saffron well & do it in a coffin, & do it forth to bake well.
1 pound apples 1/2 pound pears 1/2 cup figs 1/3 cup raisins 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ginger 1/2 teaspoon mace 10 threads saffron single "good white" crust Core and peel fruit. Grind apples first, gradually adding rest of fruit until smooth. Mix in spices. Roll out single pie crust; pour fruit mixture in and bake at 375 degrees for 40 to 45 minutes.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nysebek (Curye IV) Take þe þridde part of sowre dowe, and flour þerto, & bete it togeder tyl it be as towh as eny lyme. Cast þerto salt & do it in a disshe holke in þe bothom, and let out with thþ fyngur queyntliche in a chawfer wiþ oile, & frye it wel. And whan it is ynowhe, take it out and cast þeron sugur, &c. Take the third part of sour dough, and flour thereto, & beat it together until it be as tough as any lime. Cast thereto salt & do it in a dish perforated in the bottom, and let out with thy finger carefully in a pan with oil, & fry it well. And when it is enough, take it out and cast thereon sugar, etc.
1 cup sourdough starter 1/2 cup to 1 cup white flour, depending on starter's liquid content 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 cups oil for frying 2 tablespoons sugar Mix starter, flour, and salt together until fairly solid and no longer sticky. Heat oil in a saucepan to 375 degrees. Drop batter in through a large-holed perforated dish or by 1-inch diameter spoonfuls and cook on all sides until light brown, about 8 minutes total. Drain and sprinkle sugar over fritters. Serve warm.
Powder douce is also good over the top.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cawdel of almaund mylke (Curye IV) Take almaundes blaunched & drawe hem vp with wyne; do þerto powdour of gynger and sugur, and colour it with safroun. Boile it, cast a lytle salt þeron, and serue it forth. Take almonds blanched and draw them up with wine; do thereto powder of ginger and sugar, and color it with saffron. Boil it, cast a little salt thereon, and serve it forth.
1 cup almond milk, made with white wine 1/2 teaspoon ginger 2 tablespoons turbinado sugar 6 threads saffron 1/8 teaspoon salt Mix almond milk, ginger, sugar, and saffron. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in salt and serve hot.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To bake Peaches (Handmaide) Take Peaches, pare them, and cut them in two peeces, + take out the stones as cleane as you can for breaching of the Peach: then make your pie three square to bake fowre in a pie, let your paste be verye fine, then make your dredge with fine Sugar, Synamon and Ginger: and first lay a little dredge in the bottome of your pies: Then put in Peaches, and fill up your coffins with your Dredge, and put into every coffin three spoonfuls of Rosewater. Let not your Oven be too hot. +c. Take Peaches, pare them, and cut them in two pieces, and take out the stones as clean as you can for breaching of the Peach: then make your pie three square to bake four in a pie, let your pastry be very fine, then make your dredge [spice mixture] with fine Sugar, Cinnamon and Ginger: and first lay a little dredge in the bottom of your pies: Then put in Peaches, and fill up your coffins with your Dredge, and put into every coffin three spoonfuls of Rose-water. Let not your Oven be too hot. Et cetera.
4 medium peaches (approximately 1 3/4 pounds) 1/3 cup turbinado sugar 1 teaspoon true cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ginger 1 teaspoon rose-water single "short paste in Lent" crust Halve and pare peaches, carefully removing pits. Mix spices and sugar. Roll crust and sprinkle 1/3 of spice mixture onto the pastry. Arrange the peach halves into pastry and sprinkle remainder of spices and rose-water over the fruit. Bake at 375 degrees for 35 minutes. Serve warm.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Butter Paste (Iewell) Take flour and seven or eight eggs, and cold butter and fair water, or rose water, and spices (if you will) and make your paste. Beat it on a board, and when you have done so divide it into two or three parts and drive out the piece with a rolling pin. And do[t] with butter one piece by another, and fold up your paste upon the butter and drive it out again. And so do five or six times together, and some not cut for bearings. Put them into the oven, and when they be baked scrape sugar on them and serve them. 1 1/2 cups white flour 2 large eggs 1/4 pound + 4 tablespoons cold butter 1/2 cup rose-water 1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon mace 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar Mix flour and spices. Cut 1/4 pound of the butter into thin slices and stir into flour. Beat eggs and rose-water together. Stir into the flour mixture and spread onto a floured surface. Knead about six times. Split in two and roll each out thinly (1/8 inch or so). Chop the remaining 4 tablespoons butter; dot dough with 1/2 tablespoon worth of butter pieces. Fold each piece into thirds, give dough a quarter-turn, and fold again in thirds. Repeat roll-dot-fold six times. After having rolled out 1/8 inch thick for final time, cut out rectangles or wedges.
Bake at 375 degrees for 25 minutes. Sprinkle sugar over and serve warm.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A Tart of Strawberries (Iewell) Take strawberries and wash them in claret wine, thicken and temper them with rose-water, and season them with cinnamon, sugar and ginger, and spread it on the tart. And adorn the sides with butter and cast on sugar and biscuits and serve them so. 2 1/2 pounds cored strawberries 1/4 cup red wine 2 teaspoons rose-water 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/3 cup + 1 teaspoon turbinado sugar 1/4 teaspoon ginger 1 tablespoon butter, melted several pieces butter paste single "fine paste a nother way" crust Mash strawberries and add wine. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring. Simmer for 30 minutes. Add rose-water and spices. Cook for 30 minutes more and cool.
Roll pie crust and bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes. Fill with strawberry paste; brush crust top and inside uncovered parts with melted butter. Return to oven for 20 minutes. Sprinkle tart with sugar and place slices of butter paste on top. Bake an additional 10 minutes and serve warm.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To make a Quinces Moyse (Iewell) You must roast your wardens or quinces, and when they be roasted peel them and strain them together. And put in sugar, cinnamon and ginger, and put it in a plate. Then smooth it with a knife and scrape a little sugar on the top, and nick a little with a knife. 1 1/2 pounds quinces 1/3 cup + 1 teaspoon turbinado sugar 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ginger Core quinces and then roast at 350 degrees for 30 minutes or until soft. Peel and core fruit; mash to a smoother texture. Stir in spices. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Place on a plate or bowl, smooth top surface, and sprinkle remaining sugar over the top.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To make a Tart of Damsons (Iewell) Take damsons and seethe them in wine. Strain them with a little cream. Then boil your stuff over the fire till it be thick. Put thereto sugar, cinnamon, and ginger, but let it not into the oven after, but let your paste be baked before. 4 pounds damson plums 2 cups red wine 1/2 cup cream 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ginger single "fine paste" crust, sweet version
Wash plums and cover with wine in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 30-40 minutes, until the plums break down. Strain the pits out from the pulp and mix cream into the plum goo. Bring back to a low boil and simmer, stirring, until thick enough to coat a spoon - about 45 minutes. Mix in sugar and spices and let cool.
Roll single pie crust. Fill with pie weights and bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, until golden brown. Remove weights and let cool. Sprinkle bottom of crust with saffron and sugar, then fill with plum mixture. Serve at room temperature or cool.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To make almond pies (Casteau) Take half a pound of almonds peeled and ground, some quinces candied in sugar, a dozen dates well cleaned inside, and chopped very fine with the quinces, and half an ounce of cinnamon, three ounces of sugar, two egg yolks, and mix all with the almonds, and make a pie like the others. 1/2 pound blanched almonds 1 pound candied quinces 12 pitted dates 1 tablespoon cinnamon 1/2 cup turbinado sugar 2 large egg yolks single "To make Paste" crust Grind almonds finely. Mince quinces and dates; mix with almonds, cinnamon, sugar, and egg yolks. Roll single crust and fill. Bake at 375 degrees for 35 to 45 minutes.
If candied quinces are not available, use peeled and cored fresh quinces and 1/4 cup additional sugar.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- German [Almond] Bacon (Casteau) Take a pound of peeled almonds, and grind very thin, adding a bit of rose water, half a pound of sugar mixed with some almonds, then put it on the fire in a cauldron or frying pan, and turn it over well with a wooden ladle so much and such a long time that the almonds become like dough which is manageable, then mix always the almonds with the hand until they are cold, then take half of your almonds, and make a cover [rolled-out like a pie crust] the size of a hand. Note that it is necessary that half of the almonds be made red with rosette of Paris, until you see that they are red enough for your taste, then you will take this cover put the one on the other firstly the white and the red, after thus following until all are the one on the other, then flatten the dough with the hand all beautifully, in order that they stick the one to the other, then cut it into slices the thickness of a half finger, and put it on some paper in an oven [to cook] slowly without being too hot. 8 ounces blanched almonds 3 tablespoons rose water 4 ounces turbinado sugar 2 1/2 teaspoons saunders Grind almonds as finely as possible. Mix in rose water and sugar. Turn mixture into a small saucepan and cook over very low heat, stirring regularly with a wooden spoon or ladle for 15 minutes. (Mixture may be crumbly, but will stiffen as it cools.) Cool, continuing to mix and knead by hand. Split dough in two; color one half with the saunders. Roll each half out to a 6-inch wide and 1/8 inch thick rectangle. Thinner is fine too, as long as it doesn't break. Stack one on the other and fold, accordion-style, to alternate layers. Flatten the stack lightly by hand to meld. Slice on a 45-degree vertical angle to produce long, streaky strips resembling bacon. Set strips on parchment and bake at 200 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes, until set.
The term "German" is probably a scribal error for almonds ("Allemand" for "Almand"). A pound in Liege was 467.1 grams, or 1.03 American pounds; I rounded for simplicity. This makes a lot of almond bacon, so I reduced the quantities while keeping the proportions.
Rosette of Paris is a red dye. I substituted the more-easily available saunders, also used in late-16th century recipe collections, such as The Good Huswife's Iewell, published in 1596. I used turbinado sugar as it is not as fully refined as modern sugar, and is closer to most period sugars. There is not much taste difference, but it makes me feel better.
I omitted additional almonds mixed with the sugar. The original recipe reads: "...demye libure de succre meslé auec des amandes", which Prescott translated as "with some almonds". However, it could also be "with the almonds". I can't see any reason to mix extra almonds with the sugar before adding to ground ones – whole or coarsely ground almonds will prevent rolling out thinly. If they're ground, they won’t mix any more thoroughly. So I treated this as a mistranslation.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A Conserve (Markham) To make conserve of any fruit you please, you shall take the fruit you intend to make conserve of; and if it be stone fruit you shall take out the stones; if other fruit, take away the paring and core, and then boil them in fair running water to a reasonable height; then drain them from thence, and put them into a fresh vessel with claret wine, or white wine, according to the color of the fruit; and so boil them to a thick pap all to mashing, breaking, and stirring them together; then to every pound of pap put to a pound of sugar, and so stir them all well together, and being very hot, strain them through fair strainers, and so pot it up. 5 pounds fruit: washed, pared, cored, pitted, etc. as appropriate 1/2 cup red or white wine 2 1/2 cups sugar (more as needed) The sugar may need to be increased if your fruit is not very sweet. Use red wine for dark fruit such as strawberries, plums, and cherries. Use white wine for light fruit such as peaches and apples.
Bring the fruit and wine to a boil over medium heat, stirring and mashing to break up fruit. Stir in sugar. Simmer over low to medium heat, stirring often, until mixture has reached desired thickness.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A Cherry Tart (Markham) Take the fairest cherries you can get, and pick them clean from leaves and stalks; then spread out your coffin as for your pippin tart (having rolled out the coffin flat, and raised up a small verge of an inch or more high), and cover the bottom with sugar; then cover the sugar all over with cherries, then cover those cherries with sugar, some sticks of cinnamon, and here and there a clove; then lay in more cherries, and so more sugar, cinnamon, and cloves till the coffin be filled up: then cover it, and bake it in all points as the codling and pippin tart (bake it according to the manner of tarts, and when it is baked, draw it out, and, having boiled butter and rose-water together, anoint all the lid over therewith, and then scrape or strew on it good store of sugar, and so set it in the oven again), and so serve it; and in the same manner you may make tarts of gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, bilberries, or any other berry whatsoever. 5 cups sour cherries (Morello or Montmerency) 1/2 cup + 1/2 teaspoon turbinado sugar 1/4 cup rice flour 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon cloves double "finest" crust 1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon rose-water Halve cherries, removing leaves, stems, and stones. Mix 1/2 cup of the sugar, flour, cinnamon, and cloves together. Roll bottom crust and sprinkle 1/4 cup of the sugar mixture over crust. Layer with 3/4 cup of the berries. Alternate sugar and berries until all are in the crust. Roll second crust and place over pie. Crimp two crusts together, trimming as needed. Bake at 400 degrees for 25 minutes. Shortly before removing pie from oven, melt butter and rose-water together. Remove pie and brush top with butter mixture. Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 teaspoon sugar over top. Put back in oven for 10 minutes.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A pippin pie (Markham) Take of the fairest and best pippins, and pare them, and make a hole in the top of them; then prick in each hole a clove or two, then put them into the coffin, then break in whole sticks of cinnamon, and slices of orange peels and dates, and on the top of every pippin a little piece of sweet butter: then fill the coffin, and cover the pippins over with sugar; then close up the pie, and bake it, as you bake pies of the like nature, and when it is baked anoint the lid over with store of sweet butter, and then strew sugar upon it a good thickness, and set it into the oven again for a little space, as whilst the meat is in dishing up, and then serve it. 7 small green apples (2 1/2 pounds) 1/8 teaspoon powdered cloves 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 cup finely sliced orange peel 1/3 cup minced dates double "finest" crust 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup + 1/2 teaspoon turbinado sugar Wash, pare, and core apples. Roll bottom crust and place apples in pie. Mix cloves, cinnamon, and orange peel; rub inside each apple. Divide 1 tablespoon of the butter into pieces and dot the inside of each apple with butter and dates. Sprinkle sugar over and around apples. Roll second crust and place over pie. Crimp the two crusts together, trimming as needed. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Shortly before removing pie from oven, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Remove pie and brush top with butter. Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 teaspoon sugar over top. Put back in oven for 10 minutes.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A pippin tart (Markham) Take pippins of the fairest, and pare them, and then divide them just in the halves, and take out the cores clean: then, having rolled out the coffin flat, and raised up a small verge of an inch or more high, lay in the pippins with the hollow side downward, as close one to another as may be: then lay here and there a clove, and here and there a whole stick of cinnamon, and a little bit of butter; then cover all clean over with sugar, and so cover the coffin, and bake it according to the manner of tarts; and, when it is baked, then draw it out, and, having boiled butter and rose-water together, anoint the lid over therewith, and then scrape or strew on it good store of sugar, and so set it in the oven again, and after serve it up. 4 small green apples (1 1/4 pounds) 1/8 teaspoon powdered cloves 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup + 1/2 teaspoon sugar double "finest" crust 1 teaspoon rose-water Wash and pare apples. Split them lengthwise and remove cores. Place apple halves in bottom crust, "hollow" side down. Mix cloves and cinnamon; dust apples with mixture. Chop one tablespoon of the butter and add butter bits to apples. Sprinkle 1/3 cup of the sugar over and around apples. Roll second crust and place over pie. Crimp the two crusts together, trimming as needed. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Shortly before removing pie from oven, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and mix with rose-water. Remove pie and brush top with butter mixture. Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 teaspoon sugar over top. Put back in oven for 10 minutes.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A codling tart (Markham) Take green apples from the tree, and coddle them in scalding water without breaking; then peel the thin skin from them, and so divide them in halves, and cut out the cores, and so lay them into the coffin, and do in everything as you did in the pippin tart; and before you cover it when the sugar is cast in, see you sprinkle upon it good store of rose-water, then close it, and do as before showed. 4 small green apples (1 1/4 pounds) 1/4 teaspoon cloves 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup + 1/2 teaspoon sugar double "finest" crust 2 teaspoons rose-water Bring to a boil enough water to cover apples. Carefully place apples in pot and parboil for one minute over medium-high heat. Remove and drain. Carefully pare apples; split each in half and remove cores. Roll bottom crust.
Place apple halves in pie shell, "hollow" side down. Mix cloves and cinnamon; dust apples with mixture. Chop one tablespoon of the butter and add butter bits to apples. Sprinkle sugar over and around apples. Drizzle with rose-water. Roll second crust and place over pie. Crimp the two crusts together, trimming as needed. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Shortly before removing pie from oven, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and mix with 1 teaspoon rose-water. Remove pie and brush top with butter mixture. Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 teaspoon sugar over top. Put back in oven for 10 minutes.
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